Field Trip
Feminist Writing, Creative Practice + Care
A women-led retreat in Nepal
| Location | Kathmandu / काठमाडौं |
|---|---|
| Dates | Nov 8 – Nov 22, 2026 |
| Cost | $2,350USD |
Hosted by Nepali and Australian writers, this program invites women and queer folks to connect with themselves and each other over big questions and bold ideas through a series of workshops, local experiences and communal living.
Description ↯
Immerse yourself in the company of like minds in a city layered with sound, spice and spirit.
Tucked into the hills on the edge of the Himalayas, Kathmandu is a place where rooftops hum with conversation, ancient brick alleys lead to hidden temples and the streets beat with the rhythm of craft and devotion.
For 14 days, we'll stay in a charming family-owned cottage in Thamel that wraps around a gardened courtyard – gathering daily for thoughtfully programmed workshops, talks and excursions centred on writing, creativity and feminist practice.
Together, we'll study the Nepali language; try our hands at folding momos, pottery and mandala making; stretch our bodies out in yoga and sound healing; and visit heritage sites, feminist libraries and creative happenings in the city's galleries and bars.
For the duration of our time in Kathmandu, we'll have free access to a beautiful woman-run coworking space, Tumbaha~laya, where we can work, create and hang out. A short stroll from our accommodation, this is also where we'll be holding our writing classes – creative non-fiction, opinion and essay, anti-patriarchal writing, media literacy and ethics, and poetry.
'Retreat' can be a loaded and luxurious word in a world where the concept of "care" is commodified and sold back to us as an individualist pursuit only – often against the backdrop of a place where value is extracted and not returned.
This project is not that. In borrowing the language of fieldwork, we embrace the practice of being in Kathmandu rather than just passing through.
Kathmandu has just lived through a revolution: a youth-led uprising against deep-seated government corruption that has resulted in Nepal's first woman leader being elected, Sushila Karki – a feminist jurist whom Gen Z chose to represent them through a poll on Discord. She will lead an interim government for the next six months.
"I did not wish for this job. It was after voices from the streets that I was compelled to accept," she said.
Karki is no stranger to resistance. She was part of the people's movement that helped overthrow Nepal's absolute monarchy in the 1990s — an act that led to her arrest. From prison, she wrote कारा (Kara, meaning "Prison"), a powerful novel about the experience of incarcerated women that explores themes of justice, confinement and political struggle.
We stand in awe of the organising prowess shown by young Nepali people, and mourn the lives lost to state violence in pursuit of their goals. As a hopeful future begins to take shape, tourism businesses welcome international visitors back.
Our aim as your hosts – Nirvana, Jam and Heena – is to create travel and learning experiences that are grassroots, centre reciprocity and connect directly with women-led ventures.
Though we acknowledge that self care is important, equally, we prioritise collective care: for each other, for the people we meet, and for the places we visit.
In assembling this field trip, we wish to create a safe space for women and queer writers to exist and express with authenticity, and provide an experience that combines culture, connection and self-exploration.
We welcome 16 participants in total, with a sliding-scale payment system. 13 places will be charged at $2,350; with 3 scholarships available at NPR20,000. Nepali locals will be prioritised for these supported places.
To apply, fill in the form at the bottom of this page.



Inclusions ↯
13 nights twin-share accommodation in a family-owned guesthouse in Thamel: a calm oasis tucked just off Kathmandu's vibrant main streets.
Membership at woman-owned coworking space Tumbaha~laya, which has plenty of gorgeous zones to sit and write (including a fab rooftop). We'll be hosting our workshops here too, and it's an easy walk from our accommodation.
A series of writing workshops and panel discussions taught by Jam, Nirvana and Heena, supported by Nepali guest speakers. These include poetry, creative non-fiction, opinion and essay writing, feminist and anti-patriarchal writing, media literacy and ethics, and one-on-one editing sessions.
Nepali language and culture classes. Nepali isn't easy to master in two weeks, but we'll learn enough basic phrases and facts about etiquette to get us feeling confident for our time in Kathmandu. Most people we interact with will be able to understand or speak basic English, but a little bit of language goes a long way in conveying respect, and can make for all kinds of warm interactions. :-)
Yoga and sound healing sessions ~ with its rich history and traditions of Buddhism and Hinduism, Nepal is one of the best places to take part in authentic yoga instruction and receive sound healing.
A Nepali cooking class – have you tasted the burst of deliciousness that is biting into momo? In this interactive workshop with Heena, we'll fold dozens of our own mouthwatering dumplings, along with other tasty Nepali snacks. Vegetarian options will of course be available!
Excursions to / talks at feminist spaces in the city, including Kaalo.101, an independent, all-femme/queer run art gallery; a feminist library; and a music gig.
A class at Prajapati Ceramic: Kathmandu's first dedicated pottery therapy studio.
A mandala-making workshop with Sämden Dolma Dong Tamäng. During the immersive session, we'll learn foundational patterns, blending techniques and the symbolism behind mandala design.
A trip to Boudhanath Stupa, with its all-seeing eyes. Built centuries ago along an ancient trade route linking Nepal to Tibet, this working spiritual hub is the heart of Buddhist life. Here, monks in robes, elderly folks with prayer beads and barefoot pilgrims who've come from far away walk clockwise around the massive stupa in a ritual that is part meditation, part prayer. As visitors, we can join in or sip chai from a rooftop café observing the mesmerising happenings below.
An excursion to vibrant Patan, also known as Lalitpur: one of Nepal's oldest continuously inhabited cities and the cultural heartland of the Indigenous Newar people. Centuries-old craft techniques thrive here, and we can peruse open studios and workshops where artisans handcraft statues, jewellery and ceremonial objects.
Transport to all workshops in Kathmandu (many of our activities are within walking distance, but for those that aren't, we've got local drivers who will take good care of us).
Accommodation ↯
Surrounded by lush gardens and with a shaded courtyard to read and sip tea in, Sunrise Cottages will be our sanctuary for the duration of the trip. Rooms are charming, spacious and light-filled with private bathrooms, and there is reliable Wi-Fi throughout. From here, we can walk basically everywhere we will want to go.
We can check in to our accommodation at 12pm on 18 November, 2026. Check out will be at 12pm on December 1, 2026. If you arrive earlier, you can leave your luggage at reception and have a walk around. The best way to get there from the airport is through a pre-paid taxi.
Your Hosts ↯
Nirvana Bhandary
Nirvana is a feminist writer, independent filmmaker and creative practitioner from Kathmandu. After living a life on the road for eight years – which took her from Australia to Morocco – she now focuses her energy in her hometown, seeking to cultivate spaces and facilitate conversations about feminism, autonomy and the arts. She has just published her first book, unsanskari – a series of essays exploring what it means to be a millennial Nepali woman.
Jam
Jam is a writer and editor from “Australia” with a background in DIY publishing, tourism and gender studies. She has hosted radio shows, written front-page newspaper stories and made magazines. The founder of Astray, Jam has spent over a decade organising workshops focused on collective study and co-living, driven by the transformative power of sharing ideas, stories and everyday intimacies with people from around the world.
Heena Koirala
Heena is a digital brand strategist from Kathmandu with a deep love for travel and human connection. An avid trekker, she has explored trails like Tilicho Lake, Annapurna Base Camp and Gosaikunda. She is passionate about poetry and hosts her own event – Poetry with Heena, bringing writers and musicians together.
FAQ ↯
What’s Kathmandu like this time of year?
Our program takes place during Nepal’s high season: a vibrant time of year when the country is alive with travellers and trekking activity, and the city is full of energy. Days are pleasant and mild, with temperatures ranging from 20–24 °C; whereas at night the temperature can drop to 8–10 °C, so bring warm things for our evening adventures! Rain is rare during this season, making it an ideal time to explore.
How do I apply?
Fill in a contact form at the bottom of this page telling us a little about who you are and why you’re keen to participate in this program. We will strive to get back to you within two working days via email, and either Jam or Nirvana (or both) will tee up a quick phone call so that we can become human to each other, answer any questions you may have, and make sure we’re the right fit for each other.
I have specific access/support needs; how will you accommodate me?
We’re always up for a chat about what you need to feel supported, and have welcomed many folks in the past with specific needs: wheelchair users, d/Deaf participants, people with autism and sensory sensitivities, and mums with toddlers in tow. Basically, we just want to make sure your time with us is possible and pleasurable, so just get in touch by filling in a contact form or by emailing astrayproject@proton.me, and we can go from there!
How does payment work?
A $550USD non-refundable deposit is needed to secure your place, then the rest is due a four weeks before the program starts. We’re happy to be flexible with payment plans if you need one. We accept bank transfers to our American bank accounts, and we also have WISE, which in our experience is the cheapest and easiest way to make international transfers (we’re a US company). We can also accept credit card payments via Stripe if you’re desperate, but it’s our least preferred method coz the fees SUCK.
Where can I read reviews?
People document their time with us in all sorts of ways, and we have a collection of testimonials in various forms here.


What are we looking for? ↯
We’re looking to gather a diverse group of women and queer folks who value slow travel, reflection, and connection with people and places. You don’t need to be a writer or a practicing creative already; this space is intentionally designed to help you explore that side of yourself.
Throughout the program, we’ll be facilitating open, thoughtful conversations around the forces that shape how we live, relate and move through the world: topics like patriarchy, marriage, queerness, pro-natalism, class and capitalism. We wish to foster a space that is safe and inclusive for all – meaning we do not tolerate any form of bigotry, discrimination, abuse, marginalisation or insulting behaviour on the grounds of gender, ethnicity, religion, background, skin colour, race, religious belief, job, sexuality, gender identity, socioeconomic class, caste, disability or age. Everyone’s wellbeing is our priority.
Thankfully, in the 11 years we’ve been running programs, this has so rarely been an issue, and we tend to find that everyone keen to get involved with Astray comes with an open mind and an open heart.
Apply
Tell us a little about who you are and why you're keen to participate in this program.