They call themselves gatos – cats. If you’re a gato you’re a true Madrilenian. Three generations at least. The people of Madrid are proud of this moniker, and rightfully so. But the sad truth is gatos are increasingly rare in this city of extranjeros – a word that literally means ‘strangers’, but is used to…
I chose the bigger of the two mandarins sitting in the middle of Nick and I. It was difficult to peel and inside it was spoiled. I knew immediately that I had made a mistake. I decided to gift it to the street dogs and threw it out of the car window without tasting it.…
When I think of Spain I think of a dog, handsome but dusty, sleeping in the shade of a tangled olive tree, while the sun beats down all around and the cicadas screech. Repeat that scene a hundred thousand times and you will have a passable impression of España. Of course, there are variations. The…
My previous portero died unexpectedly. One day he was there – a fat and jovial man, bald, glasses, head pushed a little forward giving way to the staircase of rolls in the back of his neck, always with a kind word, or the latest English phrase he’d taught himself, Goot eebening, or just to hold…
Spain’s relaxed nature towards its lifestyle, including alcohol, is terrifying to the sober daughter of an alcoholic.
To have a childhood coloured by the not-so-parental parent my mother became when she drank has tainted my adult relationships with both alcohol itself and those who drink it.
At around eight, I taught myself to sneak wine…
Buenaventura Bravo’s main job during the Spanish Civil War was getting his goats out of the village and into the mountains. This was no top-secret mission, entrusted upon young ’Ventura by the besieged Republican government in Madrid, just something that had to be done; this was the day-to-day life that continued to unfold regardless of…
There is nothing noble, nor brave, about running with the bulls. Nothing of the sour smell of drunkenness and strewn-out drunkards in the early Pamplonan morning, the stench of rotten food in the street and the smell of shit —nor the bloodshed of bulls— is worthy of anecdote.
But I knew that. I did…
Where:
Modern Spain is best defined as occupying most of the land that was conquered by, and then reclaimed from, the Moors, minus the kingdom to the west that wasn’t unified under the marriage of Ferdinand of Aragon to Isabella of Castille. You know, everything south of Andorra but north of Africa that uses the…