After stacking motorbikes and removing helmets, we shuffled into a dimly lit room and sat on worn couches. We didn't mind the red wine stains or the ripped carpet. We smiled at the woman behind the bar, shook her hand, and tried to remember the Indonesian word for evening greetings.
Shisha XL was our…
“Hi everyone, we want to let you know that given that Russia entered Ukraine last night, we cannot teach for now, there’s almost no internet…” A* wrote.
What the actual fuck?
My eyes were still glued half-shut, and I started googling like a maniac. It was true.
Pictures of exploding bombs. Troops crossing borders. Blood.…
I'm sitting alone in a waiting room that I've never been in before, nor thought I’d need to.
There’s a sliver of light from the outside world peering through the small glazed window of the door into the clinic. It’s almost like any other waiting room - lifeless overhead lights, slightly comfortable seats and perhaps…
I sit in a rustic wooden house adorned with ornaments from South Asia in the middle of the wilderness in Bulgaria. It is a chilly night but inside, the atmosphere is warm. I sit in a circle with 12 new Bulgarian friends. Everyone has brought a vegan dish to this Friday night gathering. There is…
There was a man waiting for me at the airport. He waved his sign – my name misspelled, crossed out, misspelled again – then took my bag and gestured for me to follow him. The hot air hit as soon as we stepped outside; it was dusty, loud, chock-a-block with beat-up buses idling by the…
In times of peace, they were strictly enemies. Mr Wilson sat on his porch, sweating in front of an old desk fan, glowering at the boys who sat in the park, drinking beer on sun-baked afternoons, smoking cigarettes, hawking at the back of their throats, spitting, playing loud music, swearing, intimidating passers-by. They wore Nike-branded…
I was splayed between gravestones, with multiple jackets strewn across the grass. Like most men I've encountered, Galway Guy was bending my body in ways that it simply does not bend – not everyone has gotten into the yoga phenomenon. I was shivering as dew seeped through one of his many jackets and onto the…
It was a Friday, around 3pm, when we had our first glass of Kratom. Jai finished his glass first and placed it on the table.
“I’m going to the tip,” he said as he removed himself from the lounge and walked through the front door.
I was somewhat confused by this. Why would a man…
My previous portero died unexpectedly. One day he was there – a fat and jovial man, bald, glasses, head pushed a little forward giving way to the staircase of rolls in the back of his neck, always with a kind word, or the latest English phrase he’d taught himself, Goot eebening, or just to hold…
It was a great day to be chasing sea turtles. My wetsuit was tight around the shoulders, zipper stuck mid-back. Father was already sitting at the edge of the boat with his oxygen tank strapped on. My brother had gone into the water, floating with our friends. Giving up, I peeled off the top half…
“Where are you from?”
This is a typical way of breaking the ice among solo travellers. I get asked the question up to 10 times a day.
“From Norway.”
“From Norway? No way.”
Norwegians do ask too, but not nearly as often. Although everyone sees in colour, asking a stranger about their heritage is considered…
It was the eve of my 30th birthday: a painfully gorgeous afternoon in the south-east of lutruwita/Tasmania. A handful of friends and I were basking on the sunlit balcony of a 205-year-old pub after emerging from a remote and chilly hiking hut, which we had spent the past few nights in. “What would you like…